Kokaan

Savoring freshly crisped jeon alongside slow-simmered stews with close companions makes for a memorable evening. Tucked away in a basement setting in Akasaka, Kokaan offers an inviting space reminiscent of a rustic traditional Korean home, complete with relaxing tatami seating where guests can take their time over homestyle Korean cooking.

A dependable place to start is the thick seafood and scallion jeon, packed generously with spring onions and chives. Pairing effortlessly with a crisp makgeolli or beer, it establishes a substantial presence right from the first course. The table fills out nicely with balanced small plates of meat and vegetables, including black pork bossam—thinly sliced boiled pork meant to be wrapped in fresh leafy greens—and assorted namul that highlight the natural character of ingredients like eggplant.

For a heartier dinner, the simmering hot pots provide plenty of appeal, such as samgyetang—a tender young chicken stuffed with glutinous rice and jujubes—as well as chicken stew and bulgogi jeongol. Sharing a fragrant stone-pot bibimbap or kimchi fried rice makes for a satisfying finish to the meal.

With seating centered mostly around low tables where diners slip off their shoes, surrounded by warm furnishings, the restaurant makes an unhurried backdrop for catching up over a shared meal.